JEWELRY OF ART DECO
approx. 1920–1939
Art Deco is one of the defining artistic and applied arts movements of the 20. th century, which gained particular popularity in the 1920 s and 1930 s. It derives its name from the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes held in Paris in 1925. The new style reflected the dynamism of the modern era, technological progress, and urban life.
Art Deco jewelry broke away from the soft, natural lines of the preceding Art Nouveau. In their place came geometric forms, symmetry, clean lines, and powerful contrasts. Squares, rectangles, triangles, circles, and stepped forms became characteristic stylistic elements of the jewelry.
The elegance of the modern age
Art Deco was closely intertwined with the new outlook on life following the First World War. Enthusiasm for modernity, speed, and technological development manifested strongly in art. The form language of ocean liners, airplanes, automobiles, and skyscrapers all influenced the visual culture of Art Deco.
In jewelry, this modern perspective appeared in elegant, resolute, and striking forms. Alongside geometric structures, motifs drawn from exotic and historical cultures also gained popularity. For instance, the excavation of Tutankhamun's tomb in the 1922 s further reinforced the fashion for Egyptian motifs.
Materials and gemstones
One of the most characteristic precious metals of Art Deco jewelry was platinum. Its strength and malleability allowed for the creation of delicate, precise geometric shapes, while its bright color harmonized particularly beautifully with diamonds. White gold, as well as yellow gold which was increasingly used again in the 1930 s, also played an important role.
Among the favored gemstones of the era were diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies, as well as onyx, turquoise, coral, and rock crystal. Powerful color contrasts – such as the pairing of black onyx and white diamond, or emerald and diamond – provided one of the most distinctive features of Art Deco.
Cuts adapted to geometric forms also appeared in diamonds, such as baguette, emerald, triangle, and shield cuts, which fit well with the symmetrical form language of the era.
Characteristic motifs and forms
Art Deco jewelry is frequently characterized by symmetry, repeating geometry, and contrast. Stepped forms, radiating patterns, sun motifs and fans, as well as decorative elements inspired by Egyptian and Asian cultures, were popular.
Technological progress also expanded the possibilities of jewelry making. More precise stone cutting and advanced processing techniques allowed for the creation of complex, precise, and spectacular jewelry.
The significance of Art Deco jewelry today
Art Deco jewelry is easily recognizable today by its characteristically geometric forms, elegant symmetry, and bold color palette. The specialty of the era lies in combining enthusiasm for modernity with motifs drawn from the great civilizations of the past.
The resolute lines, timeless elegance, and exceptional gemstone combinations of Art Deco jewelry continue to lend a unique character and sophisticated appearance to their wearer today.
